*** Are We Physically Fit For Our Mission? (USA) *** A Thought and Discussion-Provoking Editorial By Donald F. Adamski For a number of years there have been discussions on physical fitness testing within the [Mountain Rescue Association] MRA. Supposedly, the concept is based in reality, not elitism. Acceptance of the concept has been mixed. For a personal fitness regimen (PMR) consider the following. Our primary mission is high-angle SAR. Missions vary, but all involve many tasks - each requiring different personal capabilities (rigging skills, communication skills, leadership, teamwork, patience, climbing moxie, etc., and physical fitness). An assignment as a fund raiser or ITOL requires a different set of capabilities than a first on-the-scene "hasty team" at 11,000 feet in a 50 mph snowstorm. We build our personal capabilities and unit esprit de corps through our current PMR training program and other activities. However, physical fitness for a mission task is left to the judgment of each member. At times, ego, drive to help, and denial can cloud that judgment. Granted, we all have some personal fitness regimen, but as volunteers with other life commitments our physical fitness level varies. What fitness level is adequate? How can we monitor it? Is it important to monitor it? Members who undertake a physically demanding mission task on minimum physical fitness and maximum guts are operating with a thin safety margin. If other members on a field team are similarly unfit, injury or other disaster may develop out of one simple mistake or subtask execution delay. Adrenalin and endorphins cannot carry you through every mission. Operating on the edge should be a "no-no" in 99% of our individual mission tasks. Adrenalin should be saved for that inevitable emergency. High-angle SAR is an activity in which skill, moxie, teamwork, and physical fitness are synergistic. Simply put, fit team members make a mission safer, more likely to succeed, and enjoyable. How can physical fitness for our missions be measured? What's important? Here's a few do-it-yourself suggestions. Body Mass Index (BMI) Being over or underweight puts unneeded stress on every system of the body. You can evaluate your physical stature using the following empirically derived index. It's simple and revealing. Body Mass Index (BMI) = 704 x (Your Weight in pounds (Lb.)) ---------------------------------- (Your Height in Inches) x (Your Height in Inches) The numerator above is not a misprint. The weight is your naked weight and the height is without shoes. This index applies regardless of gender, body type, and age. Evaluate yourself considering: BMI Points To Ponder ------ -------------------- Less than 20 Below ideal range. Seek to gain muscle mass and perhaps some fat by weight training and quality food intake (10% protein, 70% carbs, 20% fat - eliminate saturated fat. 20 to 26 Ideal range. Good show. You're on the right track, but read on. 26 to 30 Moderately overweight. Increase aerobic (fat burning) exercise and change to quality food intake (10% protein, 70% carbs, 20% fat - eliminate saturated fat). 30+ Truly overweight. Adopt a structured exercise and diet program. See a fit sports medicine doctor today. You are at medical risk. This index has considerable leeway. For example: At 5'-8", 151 Lb. and 9% body fat (water immersion test - see next section), my BMI is 23. The ideal BMI range implies I could weigh between 131 to 171 pounds. Nine percent fat, for my size, does not provide much insulation in the cold. Thus, I prefer not to loose fat. Even if I went to zero percent fat (impossible and unhealthy), to reach 131 pounds with my bone structure, I would have to loose important muscle mass. I would be unhealthy and very weak. At 171 pounds I would either be a blimp or a hulk depending on my fat and/or muscle gain. For my age, would added fat and/or muscle improve or hinder performance on the mountain and professionally? I have weighed 151 pounds all my adult life, even 36 years ago as a record-holding NCAA All American Swimmer. Could I now devote the necessary time to change my body? Do I want to? There are questions we all must ask and answer. Knowing your BMI and asking yourself critical questions are the first steps in a do-it-yourself fitness evaluation. Lean Body Mass (LBM) and Ideal Maximum Weight (IMW) Most of us are aware of the health risk of being overweight and believe this condition is characterized by excess visible body fat. However, few of us realize that fat can be hidden in our muscles in such a way that we can be carrying a lot of excess fat without appearing overweight. Thus, we can be overfat without being overweight! Unfortunately, 90% of adult Americans are overfat. Up to age 15, most of us are very active and burn calories fast. We "grow up" and engage in modern adult activities (driving cars, eating out, drinking, etc.). As a result, our physical activities and ability to burn calories decrease. Our muscles become weaker and less lean. We tire faster and recover slower. We tend to blame all this on aging. Unfortunately, we are in one of the most insidious traps of modern living. For overall fitness our bodies need regular physical exercise. Fat cannot burn calories - only muscles can. Most of us mistakenly believe we are more active as adults than as kids. We confuse work activities and adult problems with physical activity. Rarely, even with regular exercise, do we work muscles (including the heart and lungs) so they are stressed to capacity. If you did you would probably quit your job or workout routine. You may be mentally tired, but you are not truly physically tired at the end of a long day filled with meetings, a luncheon, resolving a conflict, etc. Routine daily activity probably never amounts to more than 50% stress to your muscles and hence 50% of your muscles can atrophy, to be replaced by fat. Picture a tender marbled gourmet beef steak. As your muscles gain fat (marble)I you may not at first gain weight because fat is merely replacing atrophying muscle fibers. Most adults who weigh the same at 40 as at 20 have become very fat. We start to gain weight only when we have so under-exercised and overeaten that we exceed the capacity of the muscles to get internally fat. Then fat begins to deposit outside the muscles under the skin. People who start to get overweight are already overfat. If you are only 5 lb. overweight, it is likely that you are at least 13 lb. overfat. In effect you are always carrying a pack that you can't take off. This can't help on a high angle SAR. Some amount of fat is necessary for overall good health. The minimum is about 3% to maintain health. The published ideal body fat for healthy mates is 15% and for females it is 22%. In our game, consider these figures as absolute maximum levels. Most conditioned athletes are considerably below (5% to 8%) these levels. So, what is your personal ideal maximum weight (IMW)? We can't start with the size of your bones, shoulder width, age, height, sex or body type. The published weight tables used by physicians are based on several of these factors and national averages which change as our society becomes more unfit. Such tables can be off by 20 to 30 lb. For any individual, it is possible to be overweight per the tables and yet be underfat and visa-versa. Some people have no visible subcutaneous fat, but their muscles are loaded with intramuscular fat. In calculating your IMW we start with that part of you which constantly functions, that burns calories all day and night, your body's furnace, your active metabolizing tissue your Lean Body Mass (LBM). Then, as a baseline, we calculate how many pounds of fat we could add to your LBM so you are the ideal 15% fat for men and 22% for women. Your LBM can be measured in several ways. The most accurate method is hydrostatic weighing (total water immersion with lungs empty), which is available locally through St. Vincent, Adventist, and OHSU hospitals [Seattle, Washington]. A simpler method involves bioelectrical impedance which takes less than one minute, doesn't hurt, and you can wear your street clothes. I found it to be within one percent of the hydrostatic method. Locally this is available through several health clubs. Regardless of method, the cost is about $20. You get a computerized output of LBM, percent fat, basal metabolism, exercise, and calorie intake guidelines to achieve your IMW. The rest is up to you. Controlling your percent fat is critical to sustained long-term physical fitness and wellness. Contact me (503-245-7210) if you are interested in measuring your LBM. Recovery Index (RI)\ This is the Harvard Step Test. It is ideal for PMR fitness evaluation, because it involves heart and Lung (cardiorespiratory) condition, leg (quad) endurance, and balance. ALL of these are important for high-angle SAR. Locate or build a sturdy bench with a height that places one upper leg (top of thigh) slightly below (about 5 deg.) the horizontal with its foot flat on the bench and the other leg straight with its foot flat on the floor. The outside angle at your raised knee (between thigh top and shin) should be Less than 90 deg. about 85 deg.)to avoid knee injury. The height is important to standardize the exertion. For me the first two steps on my inside airway are the proper height. Without support or pushing with your hands on your knees, step from the floor onto the bench top bringing both feet up (one at a time of course) and then step down bringing both feet to the floor (again, one at a time). This is one cycle. Do this at a steady rate of 30 cycles per minute for 4 minutes. Change lead leg every 10 cycles. Watch TV to prevent boredom. If you can't complete the test, just record the length of time you could do it. As soon as you finish, sit quietly for 1-minute, then count your heart beats again (not the rate in beats/minute) for 30 seconds. Continue to sit quietly. At the 2-minute mark, after you finish stepping, count your heart beats again for 30 seconds. Repeat the same 30-second heart beat count at the 3minute mark. Compute: Recovery Index (RI) = 50 x (Duration of Stepping in Seconds) --------------------------------------- (Sum of Heart Beats at the 1, 2 and 3-minute marks) Evaluate yourself using the following table: RI Ranking ----- --------- 60 or less Poor 60 to 70 Fair 70 to 80 Good 80 to 90 Very Good (suggested PMR "hasty team" level) 90+ Excellent For those of you in the 80 to 90+ range, try the same test wearing a 50-pound backpack. Your climbing or skiing boots, and 6-pound ankle weights (simulates skis with wet skins) - with your eyes closed for - 10 minutes. This will allow you to reach your heart rate plateau for your current fitness and to develop balance. It simulates high attitude winter missions. Oxygen Uptake (MaxV02) Some missions involve going from sea level (Portland) to 10,000+ feet in several hours with no time to acclimate. High cardiorespiratory (aerobic) fitness is then a must. Oxygen uptake is a primary measure of aerobic fitness. Since heavier people use more oxygen, oxygen uptake is usually expressed in milliliters of oxygen consumer per kilogram of body weight per minute (ml/kg of body wt/min). Some experts feel we are born with a personal genetic maximum oxygen uptake and it cannot be improved significantly. But, by its very definition (ml/kg of body wt/ min), we can improve it by losing weight. Few of us have ever trained sufficiently to reach our genetic maximum capacity. Four different aspects of training (mode, frequency, intensity, duration) must be present in sufficient degree to achieve noticeable cardiorespiratory gains. Experience proves that our "wind" can be lost much faster than it can be gained. Additionally, it decreases with age - or is it priorities and/or commitment? How near you function comfortably to your genetic maximum oxygen uptake capacity depends on your commitment to aerobic fitness. Aerobic fitness is distinctly different from strength fitness. In our arena we need both. To estimate your current oxygen uptake, run as fast as possible for 15 minutes on a good outdoor track (makes estimating distance easy) and a windless day. This must be an all out effort and you should be exhausted at the end. Record the distance you run and convert it to minutes/mile. Your approximate MaxV02 is: Speed In Min/Mi Approximate MaxV02 ------------------ ------------------------- 9 41 (minimally fit) 8 45 7 50 (suggested PMR "hasty team" level) 6 56.5 5 65.8 Minimally aerobically fit people score around 40. World-class endurance athletes score in the 70's to 80's. Being overweight will lower your score. Being underweight may make you a fast runner, but physically weak as a mountaineer. In high attitude SAR, a balance is obviously required. If you cannot or do not like to run for conditioning, consider activities which guarantee a very high sustained heart rate (hiking hilts, cycling, cross-country skiing, ski mountaineering, aerobics, rowing, stair climbing, fast lap swimming, roller-blading, etc.) for at least 30 minutes every other day. The rest days are important. Circuit and cross-training minimize boredom and promote whole body fitness. Why not stay near your genetic capacity? Where are you today? Overall Body Strength and Endurance This is important for carrying equipment, raising/lowering tasks, avoiding injury, and toughening ligaments, tendons, and bones. Don't forget to stretch regularly (see Reference 7). Some simple free-weight tests are: Test Desirable Levels ---------- ----------------- Bench 8 reps at your body weight (strength measure) Press 20 reps at 70% of your body weight (endurance measure) Chin-Ups 10 reps with palms in (your pace - no resting) 10 reps with palms out (your pace - no resting) Push-Ups 50 reps (your pace - no resting). Body ridged, nose at floor when down, elbows straight when up. Squat 8 reps at your body weight (strength measure) 20 reps at 70% of your body weight (endurance measure) Dead 8 reps at your body weight (strength measure) Lift 20 reps at 70% of your body weight (endurance measure) Stomach 50 reps/min. Crunches Knees bent, feet not held down, lower back on floor. Rest about 3 minutes between tests and alternate tests by muscle groups. If you cannot do all these tests, simply practice a little each exercise session (at least 3 per week). At the weight levels indicated you will not become "muscle bound", but you will gain definition. Start low and do not increase more than 2% each week to avoid injury. Develop an efficient exercise regimen wherein you get maximum gain for minimum time invested (see References 4-8). It takes commitment and dedication. In this sense - to gain or simply to hold our own requires effort. Fitness Laws Regardless of our current fitness level, we are all subject to the following laws: 1. Fitness is Lost if you exercise 2 days or less per week. 2. Fitness is Maintained if you exercise 3 days per week. 3. Fitness is Improved if you exercise 6 days per week. 4. Burn 300-400 calories minimum, each exercise session. Caloric burn rates for various activities are presented in Reference 2. Examples are: ski mountaineering uphill fast 21 calories/min. running 8-minute miles 14 calories/min. swimming vigorously 12 calories/min. golf, using a cart 3 calories/min. typing 1.8 calories/min. 5. Exercise must be Steady and Non-stop for at least 30 minutes. 6. Maintain Your Heart Rate at 70% to 90% of maximum for the Entire 30-minute period. 7. Your Maximum Heart Rate = (220, less your age). 8. To Improve Cardiorespiratory Fitness requires added effort and overload. 9. To Improve Overall Strength requires added effort and overload. 10. To Improve Overall Endurance requires added effort and overload. 11. Stretch daily and preferably after each workout. 12. Eat a Quality Food diet (10% protein, 70% carbs, 20% fat -eliminate saturated fat). 13. Drink Adequate Water. At least ten 8-ounce glasses of clear water per day irrespective of other fluids (milk, tea, coffee, etc.) you drink. 14. Sleep Adequately to recoup quickly. 15. Listen To Your Body - the body knows. To keep these Laws may require an attitude adjustment. Think about it - there is no fitness pill. Its up to you alone. Adjust your Fitness Level to meet your goals and chosen lifestyle. Be realistic in your aspirations and accepting mission tasks. Know and accept your limits PMR always has tasks suitable for most any fitness level. Considering your performance on these simple in-town tests, should PMR have in-town fitness testing? Would in-field teams (hasty and backup) composed totally of members who have a similar physical fitness level be beneficial for on-the-mountain winter missions? Should we have in-field tests, such as, periodic timed climbs carrying packs (30, 40, 50 lb.?) to Illumination Saddle or other locations? If so, under what type of snow, weather, and travel (skis, snowshoes, foot) conditions? Would this foster reality or elitism? Let's hear your thoughts on this subject. Is it worth pursuing further? References: 1. Randall & Johnson, Mt.McKinley Climber's Handbook, Genet Expeditions,1987 2. Althoff, et al, Choices in Health and Fitness for Life, Gorsuch, Scarisbrick, Pub., 1988. 3. Bailey, Fit or Fat, Houghton Miffin Co., 1978. 4. Lamb, Physiology of Exercise, Macmillan, 1984. 5. Pearl, Getting Stronger, Shelter Pub, 1986. 6. McRoberts, Brawn, CS Pub, 1993. 7. Anderson, Stretching, 1980 8. Scott, Triathlon Training, Simon & Schuster, 1986 Donald F. Adamski 503-245-7210 Mountain Rescue Association Editor, Ken Mroczek The Rescue Forum Journal of the Mountain Rescue Association Tim Cochrane, President Mountain Rescue Association 710 10th Street Golden, CO 80401 --------------------------